Gourmet Magazine - Hamming It Up

February 01, 2005

Gourmet Magazine
February, 2005
Volume LXV, Number 2

TESTING FOR PERFECTION

When we tested mail-order hams for their Easter dinner suitability, we ended up organizing them into two categories: Smoky and Mild. Sometimes a super-smoky ham is shown to greater advantages when used almost as a condiment, nestled into a fresh, warm biscuit or shredded into a risotto, for instance.

All the hams we tried are city cured, or baked, hams; they are juicy, meaty hams that are often glazed or studded with cloves, not the dry-salt-cured Smithfield type, which is best nibbled in paper-thin slices.

When ordering a half ham, we generally prefer the shank end - it looks more elegant, plus you get a bone for soup. We also prefer a ham that isn't spiral cut; those dry out too much in the oven.

For testing purposes, we simply ordered what was available at the time from each producer. The rule of thumb for heating a hat through is 10 minutes per pound in the middle of a 325-degree F oven. Wrap it in foil first; if the ham comes already wrapped in foil, check for a plastic layer underneath, discarding it if found.

SMOKY HAMS WE LIKE

HAM	FLAVOR & TEXTURE	VISUAL APPEAL
1. Edwards (Virginia) bone-in "Tender Smoked" whole ham (17 to 18 lb.), $79.95	The perfect balance between salt, sweetness, and smoke; tender but dryer than most city-cured hams	Big and bold, with an impressive swath of fat and burnished skin. This is a real beaut.
2. Johnston County Hams (North Carolina) bone-in "Cooked Country" whole ham (10 lb.), $60.95	Good overall flavor although a little smoky for some tastes; tender.	Dark, smoky-looking exterior, lovely pink interior.
3. Murcer's (Oklahoma) bone-in whole ham (15 to 18 lb.), $118.95	Terrific smoke; a bit on the salty side for some, but others found it well-seasoned; meat is on the dry side, similar to that of Edwards.	Dark and rustic exterior, beautiful blush of pink inside.
4. Kreuz Market (Texas) boneless single-muscle "Pit Ham," $7.90 per lb. (3-lb. minimum)	Great smoke, juicy meat, and peppery finish. It might be too overwhelming for Easter dinner, but would be terrific in biscuits or added to soup.	Because this is a single muscle, it has no bone, no skin, no exterior fat. The upside? Very easy to carve, and it's small - a boon for singletons.
5. Col. Newsom's Hams (Kentucky) bone-in "Preacher" half ham (7 to 9 lb.), $48.99	If you love hickory smoke and juicy meat, you'll love this, although a plateful might be too much of a good thing (try it tucked inside biscuits instead).

ACCEPTABLE SMOKY HAM

Burgers' Smokehouse (Missouri) bone-in city-cured half ham (6 to 8 lb.), $47.75

Mild smoke (a little too mild for some of us); moist and tender.

A pretty ham, in the Edwards tradition.

MILD HAMS WE LIKE

6. Lobel's (New York) bone-in half ham (6 to 7 lb.), $48.98	A nice balance of sweetness, salt, and gentle smoke; juicy, tender meat. A real crowd pleaser.	Handsome, with crosshatched exterior; rosy exterior
7. Snake River Farms (Idaho) boneless Kurobuta half ham (4 lb.), $79.99	Made from the "Kobe beef" of pork; beautifully balanced, with a little textural bounce that your either love or hate.	Small and solid. Because it's boneless, it's easy to carve and there's no waste; the downside is that you don't get a soup bone.
8. Niman Ranch (California) bone- in half ham (7 1/2 lb.), $63.00	The saltiest of the mild hams (not necessarily a bad thing); tender meat with a firm, slightly bouncy texture.	Pretty and pink.

ACCEPTABLE MILD HAMS

Gwaltney (Virginia) bone-in spiral-cut "Suger Cured" half ham (6 to 8 lb.), $40	Relatively balanced despite having very little smoke; the texture is somewhat dry, due in part, perhaps, to the fact that it's spiral cut.	Dark, smoky exterior, pale pink interior.
Harry & David (Oregon) bone-in spiral-cut half ham (7 lb. 8 oz. to 8 lb. 8 lb. 8 oz.), $64.95	Gentle smoke; the meat is dry (that spiral cut, again) but still has general appeal.	Perfectly fine; nicely pink inside.
Ham I Am! (Texas) bone in "Hickory Smoked" half ham (7 to 8 lb.), $49.95	More of a fresh pork taste; the "shredded" texture is more tender than it looks.	A very pink ham; looks dry.
The Honey Baked Ham Company (Massachusetts) bone-in spiral-cut half ham (8-9 lb.), $66	Very sweet and the outer slices are a little dry, but still tender; has its fans across the land.	Thick, dark glaze on exterior; ruddy inside.

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